![]() ![]() Best of all, unlike some other examples of the style, this juicy IPA has enough bitterness to cut through the oil and salt of the chicken. I’d been hearing good things about Lewes’ new Abyss Brewing for a little while now and its Zen Level II New England IPA is packed with luscious pineapple and tropical fruit flavours that harmonise elegantly with the basil in this dish. Something else I love about this dish: It is a perfect complement to a juicy New England IPA. The one concession to my own tastes was adding a highly non-traditional dipping sauce of mayonnaise, lime, garlic and a bit of turmeric for earthiness and colour – I like a creamy sauce with a fresh, acidic tang as a counterpoint to the chicken’s savoury glory. In the accompanying video, Li talks about how the dish reminds her of, and feeds her homesickness for, Taiwan’s night markets. (Tapioca flour, often sold as tapioca starch, is readily available in Asian grocery stores.) And their tapioca-flour coating makes them irresistibly crunchy. You can imagine how I felt, then, when Sue Li’s recipe for Taiwanese Popcorn Chicken with Fried Basil in New York Times Cooking suddenly started popping up on friends’ feeds a few weeks back. This is an accessible way to make fried chicken: The pieces are small and cook quickly (no fears of overly tough meat or undercooked centres here), have a beguiling savouriness from the soy sauce and a complex fragrance from the Chinese five-spice. As much as the thought of a big pot of screaming-hot oil might be intimidating, watching items bubble up and dance as they turn from wan to burnished gold is about as much fun as it’s possible to have in a kitchen. ![]() Then I got bolder: deep-fried jackfruit. Deep-fried Mars Bars. It started small: shallow-fried goujons, mozzarella sticks. ![]() It was to my great surprise, then, when I discovered in recent years that I have an affinity – maybe even a knack – for frying. My parents are generally health-conscious, and by nature suspicious of any amount of oil that would approach a “vat”.
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